A Journey of the Soul in Yangon

Text and photograph
by Marishka Noelle M. Cabrera


Yangon, erstwhile capital of Myanmar, may not be a mainstream tourist destination, but a relaxed meandering through its tree-lined streets and a soulful trek through its serene pagodas and placid lakes could very well transform a simply pleasant vacation into an incredibly poignant and unforgettable spiritual journey.

This dawned on me early on in the two months of summer that I, along with two sisters and a brother, gloriously spent with our parents in Myanmar where my father Noel Cabrera serves as Philippine ambassador. What we saw and felt in Yangon was a far cry from the preconceived notions and conjured images we had of this largely unknown city.

Before leaving Manila, my siblings and I were forewarned by some well-meaning friends of what lay before us. Aside from being a backward economy with little to boast of in terms of efficient systems and advanced technologies, these friends cautioned, Myanmar was terribly boring. It was not Rome or Vienna, Tokyo or Prague. But the allure of Yangon is something else, one that appeals to the weary soul and the parched senses, one that seduces the mind to search for comforting peace, for an inner tranquility that draws from a heart that has come to terms with the universe.

An overwhelmingly Buddhist nation, Myanmar is steeped in the culture of prayer and non-violence, contentment and alms giving, enlightenment and sacrifice. This deep religiosity is discerned not only in the countless pagodas scattered all over, not only in the ubiquitous monks who ply the streets with their alms bowls, but more importantly in the serene faces and quiet demeanor of the people themselves.

To be sure, Yangon is a growing city with its attendant problems. A throwback to the past, this former capital of five million people in a 350-square-kilometer area of land is highly reminiscent of how things probably were in Manila some 50 years ago. Infrastructure, basic services, public conveyances, and facilities leave much to be desired.

But it is a city that trudges on at its own pace, seemingly unconscious of the passage of time. Walkinga the streets, you find yourself lost in the myriad of traditional teahouses, ambulant vendors, repair shops, and makeshift stalls, coming across some fairly new buildings and hotels here and there. People from all walks of life pour into the sidewalks and spill into the crowded roads, each with his own agenda to fulfill. Everywhere, one cannot fail but bump into a man, woman, or child monk with the shaven head, orange robes, black alms bowl, and sometimes bare feet.

It is fascinating to watch ordinary city-dwellers hustling to and from work attired in their traditional shirt/blouse and longyi (an ankle-length wrap-around the pants/skirt), filling every inch of space in old beat-up buses and converted pick-up trucks (their version of the jeepney) converted into passenger vehicles. Either they have gotten used to or are resigned to this daily packed-like-sardines state of affairs. One can also see them ambling along, worshipping in the pagodas or, in the afternoons, sitting at low plastic tables and chairs and conversing in makeshift teahouses along the sidewalk.

They are simple in the way they live. Devoid of most of the luxuries many people enjoy and take for granted, they seem to find pleasure in simply relating with each other, carrying out their religious duties, or spending time with the family. Rather than complain, they try to make do with what they have because it is only this that has been given to them and they must be content. For these Myanmar folk, all is indeed grace.

Everywhere we went, we were greeted with a smile, a smile that spoke of a sense of well-being and balance with the universe. A Myanmar friend once tried to explain this to us. She talked of how only a thin slice of upper society was getting richer and richer while the larger portion remained poor or grew poorer. “But look at the people on the street,” she said, “look at their faces and tell me who is happier, more at peace. The rich are hardly satisfied; they cannot find contentment.”

It is no wonder that even among the highly devout Buddhist laity in Myanmar, the pagodas and the meditation centers are favorite places of comfort and refuge from the pressures and weariness of daily life. For the accidental tourist or the deliberate traveler to Yangon, a visit to these places is a must.

Yangon counts numerous meditation centers for locals and foreigners alike who would like to learn the art of meditation. Spare and modest in facility, these centers offer tourists and aspiring yogis a secluded place to experience the Dhamma or Buddha’s teachings.

With our Myanmar friend in tow, we went to visit the Panditarama Meditation Center. We had the rare honor and privilege to meet with the Sadayaw or Buddhist top monk in the monastery. We wanted to ask him how to go about the meditation and why we should indulge in it.

It was an experience and a feeling I can never forget. For some unexplainable reason, I was rendered speechless as I sat in veneration before the Sadayaw. Perhaps I was intimidated or plain afraid to utter a word for fear of sounding like the rest who supplicated before him in their quest for spiritual wholeness.

He spoke with few carefully chosen words that carried deep spiritual insight. He told us that our being there was already an indication that we had listened to our inner desire to tread the path of liberation of the heart and mind.

While there are many meditation centers to choose from, there are just as many Buddhist temples and places of worship, the biggest and grandest being the Shwedagon Pagoda, said to be the mother of all pagodas in Myanmar. This golden pagoda sits on top of a hill overlooking the whole of the city. In this expanse of spires and Buddha relics and statues, the central spire, at 326 feet high, is encrusted in gold leaf and embellished with countless precious stones, with one of the biggest diamonds in the world crowning the spire. Walking barefoot across the marble floor of the main pagoda, we stood in awe at the glistening stupas and the magnificence of a Being that lorded over that golden spread.

There are several other pagodas in the Yangon area alone, among them the Sule Pagoda at the very heart of the city, the riverside Botahtaung Pagoda, and other places of worship where one can just sit and imbibe the peace and quiet suffusing the grounds where the immense Reclining Buddha or the 20-meter-high Seated Buddha loom like gentle giants.

But it need not be a meditation center or a pagoda when seeking refuge and rest. Smack in the center of Yangon are two lakes that have long provided city-dwellers and tourists the serenity, the calm, the fresh breeze and lush vegetation at the fringes — the Inya Lake and the Kandawgyi Lake. Boardwalks around and over the water of Kandawgyi have long been a favorite for meditation, exercise, tai chi, jogging, or a morning stroll. There are also several nature parks as well as health and relaxation spas which one can conveniently visit.

Yangon is not totally devoid of shopping excitement. Main center of the activity is the Scott Market, a British colonial structure built in 1926 and now popularly known as the Bogyoke Aung San Market. In the tradition of the exotic and mystical appeal of Asian market places, Bogyoke offers at amazingly low prices a wide array of antique items, tapestries, teak and sandalwood carvings, décor and handicrafts, fabrics, quality paintings in oil and watercolor, and of course, fashion accessories and fine jewelry made of the wide range of quality precious and semi-precious stones and gems that Myanmar is famous for.

Yangon is probably the only place in the world where you can try on the most exquisite, delicately crafted, and expensive jewelry —made of the finest gold and most precious of stones — without the saleslady creating a fuss over your fingerprints on the merchandise or guarding you like a leech. Either these jewelers are overflowing with trust or simply overflowing with gems to even care about possible shoplifting.

Rich in natural-resources, Myanmar is home to the world famous teak wood, the rare pigeon blood ruby, the highly sought imperial jade, a whole spectrum of precious and semi-precious stones like the sapphire, amethyst, opal, lapis lazuli, moonstone, quartz, spinel and agate.

But Myanmar’s true jewels may be its people. Weighed down by the demands of daily survival and deprived of what many would consider as requisites for a contented life, they seem nonetheless to have struck a balance with the realities of their existence. In the face of adversities, they have remained gentle, simple, and generous as they seek a deeper understanding of their lives. Truly, they are guided by what is essential to the body, what is soothing to the heart, what is peace to the mind, what is food to the soul.

Reposted from Philstar.com, with author’s permission.

Historic Leyte

By Rick Enrique


Maasin City is a coastal town in Southern Leyte and is considered the oldest town in the province. Little is known about its pre-Spanish existence, but I gathered that when the Spanish missionaries came, they discovered a well-organized community with a very friendly people.

Maasin grew rapidly after the Jesuit priests built the first church in the 1700s. Ruins of the church still exist today, located between the districts of Abgao and Mantahan. When the Augustinian fathers took over the parish in 1768 the townspeople, with the guidance of the Spanish ecclesiastical authorities, built the town’s second concrete church located approximately one kilometer away from the ruins of the first one. The church stands to this day, although it underwent extensive repair and renovation because of damages wrought by the forces of nature and man-made events. In 1843, Franciscan missionaries took over the parish and managed it until 1896, after which a native clergy took over when the Franciscans abandoned it during the revolution.

The short-lived Philippine revolution against Spain, the arrival of the Americans at the beginning of the 20th century, and the Japanese occupation of Maasin in the 40’s brought to a halt the prosperity that the town started to experience.

It was only when the Americans returned in 1944, that Maasin resumed its path to prosperity.

It became, once again, a bustling seacoast town trading with the nearby islands of Cebu, Bohol, and Mindanao. Through the initiatives of its leaders, Maasin continued to move forward in its role as the center of commerce and industry in Southern Leyte , a role it still currently enjoys.

In addition to its colorful historical past, Maasin is blessed with natural wonders like the Banahaw Springs located in Barangay San Joaquin, Macrohon which features a cool spring water pool. The Guinsohotan and Busay Falls in Maasin feature clear running waters for swimming and picnicking. Some townspeople do their laundry in some parts of the falls.
The Bitu-on beach in Barangay San Roque, Liloan has a white sandy beach where a variety of colorful seashells abound, and is an excellent location for picnicking, swimming and fishing for families and friends. There’s Maamo Beach in Barangay San Roque, and can be reached by outriggers via Mahaplag, Sogod. The Mohon Beach is said to be among those frequented by local as well as foreign guests.

Maasin also has a nice site for scuba diving called the Macrohon Reef, just off the shores of Macrohon town proper. Its underwater beauty includes corals of different colors and a fish sanctuary.

There are also some resorts in Maaasin like the Cuatro Islas, located in the towns of Inopacan and Hindang. The resort is equipped with nipa (native palm) huts for picnics and overnight respites. Pumpboats from the town proper take approximately 30 minutes to reach the Islas’ rich fishing grounds. Bordering the Islas’ white sandy shorelines are four islets: the Apit, Daguio, Himokilan, and Mahaba

Then there is the Esfa Beach Resort in the heart of the city, which has a rest house with native delicacies, beach tables, and dressing rooms. The Kuting Beach Resort in Macrohon also features wide stretches of sandy beach, and a favorite site for swimming and picnicking as well. For those who love hiking, there is the Hanginan trail, which is the highest elevation in Maasin. It served as a watch point during the Spanish era.

Just 45 minutes by motor boat from Padre Burgos is the historic Limasawa Island located at the southern tip of Leyte. It was the site of the first Catholic Mass in the Philippines, when the Spanish conquistadors arrived in 1521.

Lake Buhi: Showcase of Enchanting Beauty

By Rick Enrique

The town of Buhi in Camarines Sur is a showcase of enchanting beauty. More than its undulating mountain slopes and long stretches of shoreline, what attracts travelers to this town is the famous Lake Buhi, home to the world’s smallest fish, called “sinarapan,” as recorded in the Guinness Book of World Record. The fish measures only around 2.1-2.4mm long or smaller than a ten centavo coin.

It is only in Lake Buhi and its surrounding lakes where the tiny Sinarapan are found. The most important of the surrounding lakelets is Manapao where a small sanctuary and repopulation project for Sinarapan is being undertaken. Due to the declining population of this endemic fish, the municipality has banned the fishing of Sinarapan until its population stabilizes.

The 1,800 hectare lake is only 300 feet above sea level, and is an important natural and economic resource in the area. It was formed with the eruption of Mt. Asog, a prominent, but now dormant volcano.

According to the Philippine National Biodiversity Strategy and Action Plan, the Buhi Lake System is an extremely-high critical area for biodiversity. Aside from the Sinarapan, the lake is also home to seven other native fish species; Irin-irin (Goby, Redigobius dispar), Dalag (Snakehead murrel, Channa striata), Atas, Puyo (Climbing perch, Anabas testudines), Kotnag (Half-beak, Hemiramphus), Burirawan (Slender giant moray, Strophidon sathete) and Native hito (Clarias). At least four fish species have been introduced to the lake in order to boost inland fisheries production: Nile Tilapia (Oreochromis niloticus), Mozambique Tilapia (Oreochromis mossambicus), Karpa (Common Carp, Cyprinus carpio) and Bankok Hito (Catfish, Clarias ).

Aside from being a haven for fish, Lake Buhi also serves as a major watershed for the entire municipality. Fourteen tributaries converged into the lake. A Hydro Electric Plant of the National Power Corporation (NAPOCOR) generates about 2.8 megawatts of power from this lake. Buhi also supplies the National Irrigation Administration (NIA) with water, irrigating at least 12,000 hectares in the area including the Municipality of Pili.

The surrounding forest is home to at least 25 bird species, five of which are endemic species: Philippine Pygmy Woodpecker, Philippine Hanging Parrot, Elegant Tit, Black-naped Monach and White-eared Brown Dove. It is also home to other wildlife such as flying lizards (Draco sp.), skinks (Fam. Scincidae), monitor lizard (Varanus salvator), civet cats, bats, long-tailed monkeys (Macaca fasicularis).
As we crossed a bridge overlooking the lake, we chanced upon a group of local folk fishing at the foot of the bridge. We stopped for some small talk and asked them if they had caught any, as we wanted to buy for our own consumption. They pointed to a native tribesman, an Aeta who was willing to sell his catch. So we bought all his catch and that made up our lunch for the day.

We finally arrived at our destination, the Lake Buhi Resort in Cabatuan town. A deluxe resort on a two-hectare lakefront land, it has a large beautiful swimming pool, with 15 superior guest rooms. The three story building has a top balcony overlooking Lake Buhi and the mountains. On a clear day like when we were there, the Mayon volcano was also visible. The resort is brand new and has not even announced its grand opening.

The resort’s chef Mr. Pat Canete met us and we told him how we wanted our lunch cooked. It turned out to be an excellent lunch, sort of fine dining one could hardly expect in that remote place. Our chef assigned two waiters to personally attend to our needs. I learned that our chef has a 15 year experience in Cebu city.

After our delicious lunch, we rented a boat and went to the other side of the lake where we met a group of local men relaxing along the bank, drinking local rum, with dried shrimp and dilis (small dried fish) as “pulutan” (appetizer). We stopped to talk to them. We were offered a drink and out of courtesy, we took a sip of their rum. After exchanging pleasantries, we posed with them for pictures while my American friend Paul Jackle clowned around . The group was very polite, warm and hospitable. We left our boat and went trekking for about an hour and then we returned to our boat and headed back to the resort. The group of local men we met earlier on was still there. They all waved goodbye as we headed back to the other side of the lake. The sun was so hot and the weather was very humid, so upon our arrival at the resort, Paul and I jumped into the pool to cool off before proceeding back to Naga city.

We had dinner at Coco leaf on Magsaysay Ave. in Naga and then we listened to a live band at Lolo’s Bar along the avenue. Our night was over and the next morning after breakfast we proceeded to the airport to catch our flight back to Manila.

Lake Buhi can easily be promoted for eco-tourism. Why not visit it on your next trip to the Philippines? I assure you, you will enjoy every minute of your stay.

Rediscovering Naga City

By Rick Enrique


Naga City may have been discovered by the Spanish Conquistadors in 1573, but long before their arrival and the establishment of the Spanish colonial government, Naga was already a flourishing village and a thriving community.

This historic city of Naga, considered one of the oldest in the Philippines was our next destination after Muslim Mindanao.

My friend Paul Jackle and I arrived inManila at around seven in the evening and immediately proceeded to the Richmonde Hotel in Ortigas for an overnight stay.

The following day, after an early breakfast at the hotel, our airport transfer service took us to the domestic terminal for our Air Philippines flight to Naga City. When we arrived at the Naga City Airport, the terminal was in total disarray due to major renovations going on. With 60 percent of the building under construction, there was total chaos in the terminal every time there were arrivals and departures. We had to go out of the building for a while to catch a breath of fresh air.

We were met at the airport by our hotel representative and an independent tour guide who offered to take us on a tour of the place for a certain fee. We had to hire the tour guide on the spot, as we did not have a set and planed itinerary in Naga City, which I always advise against. It is a lot better to have a ready itinerary when visiting a place in the Philippines or anywhere else in the world for that matter.

We checked in at the Naga Land Hotel in downtown Naga, which was very busy and noisy as it was situated on a major road. We specifically requested rooms that were far from the road side, which the hotel management graciously gave us.

After settling in, we asked our tour guide for the itinerary he had in mind. To my dismay he had nothing, not even a brochure. The guy was totally unprepared as tourist guide. I helped him out by asking questions and suggesting places I wanted to see, and after much prodding, he started describing places that seemed interesting enough to see.

Naga City is located in the Bicol Region, a peninsula on the southeastern tip of the island of Luzon. It is 377 kilometers southeast of Manila, the nation's capital, and about 380 kilometers north of Cebu City. It is one of the two cities (the other is Iriga) in the province of Camarines Sur, which is the largest among the six provinces in the Bicol region.

For hundreds of years, Naga City was a center of trade, education and culture. It was the seat of governmental and ecclesiastical jurisdiction. The Spanish conquistador Juan de Salcedo named the village Naga, (which means narra in Bicol) because of the abundance of narra trees. When he left in 1575, Captain Pedro de Chavez named a site across the river from the original Naga, a Spanish city he called Caceres. In time, the Spanish city and the native village were merged into one community and became popularly known as Nueva Caceres.

It was only under the Philippine Republic that an independent component city of Naga was created. Then with the advent of the American rule, Nueva Caceres was reduced into a municipality. But during the Spanish regime, the Bishops of Caceres occupied a unique place in the Philippine Catholic hierarchy, in that ecclesiastical cases originating in the Spanish Indies, which ordinarily were appealable to the Pope, were ordered to be terminated there and no longer elevated to Rome. In this sense, Bishops of Bicol were delegates of the Pope and were considered primates of the Church of the Philippines.

Just like the rest of the country, the influence of the Spanish conquistadors and their regime was very much evident in Naga, particularly in the residents’ religious life.

After our lunch at Caby’s Cabana in downtown Naga, my American friend-client Paul Jackle and I proceeded to Panicuason Hydro Hot and Cold Resort in Mt. Isarog, an inactive volcano that rises in the heart of the province of Camarines Sur, the central part of Bicol Peninsula, about 450 kilometers south of Manila. Mt. Isarog is said to be the highest forested peak in Southern Luzon.

The park, which sits on a 10,112 hectare lot, has a rich diversity of flora and fauna. It is home to at least 143 kinds of birds, 15 of which are commonly found in Luzon, and some endemic to Mt. Isarog only, like the shrew mouse, and the striped shrew rat.

We met a few foreign tourists, mostly Europeans and some locals at the hot spring at the foot of the mountain. We changed into our swimming trunks to enjoy the hot spring, which was around 32 degrees, and another one at 39 degrees. From the hot spring, we jumped into the running cold spring and had a refreshing swim.

After a very relaxing swim, it was time to take a look at the Spanish influence on the religious life of the people of Naga. Clustered along E. Angeles Street are three impressive institutions, the Metropolitan Cathedral, which reportedly took 15 years to build, the Holy Rosary Seminary, one of the oldest schools in the country, and the Colegio de Santa Isabel, the first college for women in the Orient.

We visited Penafrancia Basilica Minore, the new home of the image of Our Lady of Penafrancia, where she is brought after the annual fluvial parade in her honor every September. The Peñafrancia Shrine is her original home. The procession is said to be a phenomenal spectacle. The statue bobs up and down on the decorated boat surrounded by fanatic devotees as the huge crowd of locals and tourists cheers them on. The Peñafrancia Museum displays historic relics of Marian devotion, as well as other cultural and historical heritage of Camarines Sur.

Plaza Rizal is a favorite center for debates, while Plaza Quince Martires honors the 15 Bicol martyrs of the Spanish regime, and Plaza Quezon is where fiesta parades are held. Fiesta parades are a crowd drawer and are frequented by tourists. Plaza Barlin fronting the Metropolitan Cathedral honors the first Filipino Bishop of the Catholic Church in the nation.

After our tour of the city, we stopped by a supermarket and bought Bicol’s famous pili nuts. After an adventurous day, we settled for a simple dinner before calling it a day.

Modernization is slowly catching up with Naga City. Modern franchises, stores and fast food outlets line its major streets and avenues. The surroundings are clean, the people warm and friendly with a ready smile for visitors.

Bicol’s unique way of cooking native dishes with coconut milk and hot pepper, obliquely reminded us of the savory and hot New Orleans Creole Indian cuisine, without of course, the coconut milk.

Visit Naga City, and feel the spirit, the pulse, and its colorful history.

Tagaytay, a Paradise Like No Other

By Rick Enrique

Tagaytay city in the province of Cavite lies on top of a ridge, 640 meters above sea level. The ridge provides a spectacular view of Taal Lake and Taal Volcano, which straddles the boundary of Batangas province.

Taal Volcano is reputed to be the world’s smallest yet most active volcano. It stands on its own island amid a landscape of ash and cinder. The ridges and forest of Tagaytay served as the sanctuary for revolutionaries during the Philippine revolt against the Spaniards.

It is a paradise like no other, blessed with many wonders and its year round cool climate that makes it the Philippines’ second summer capital.

Tagaytay city is around one and half hour away from Metro Manila, via the South expressway going to Laguna. My host and I arrived at around lunchtime and we immediately proceeded to the town of Talisay which has access going down Taal Lake. A lunch was prepared for us by the “Balai Isabel” management.

After lunch we inspected a newly developed community where houses are being built at a cost of seven million to eight million pesos. The land wherein the houses are being built is along Taal Lake. There is a community hall, a swimming pool, cottages for rent for those who want to stay overnight, a restaurant, an exercise room and the place is surrounded by lots of coconut trees and other fruit trees.

Much like in the rest of the Philippines, real estate is booming in Tagaytay City. After all, real estate is all about location, and Tagaytay is a perfect location: so near Metropolitan Manila, yet so far from the hustle and bustle of city life.

After inspecting the new development, we went back to the city where we saw numerous hotels, inns, apartelles and bed and breakfast inns. All along the highway, restaurants, shops and fruit stands had mushroomed, providing brisk business for the locales.

We stopped by one of the restaurants with a spectacular view of the volcano, and had a little snack.

A favorite destination for day-travelers is the Picnic Grove, where thatched huts line the gentle slopes. It is also a prime location, providing the finest view of the volcano far below.

But Tagaytay is more than just a picnic destination. The place has also given rise to many congregational houses and retreat centers, earning for it yet another title as the "Center of Spiritual Retreat."

Then there is the People's Park In The Sky. It is a blend of natural and man-made attractions, poised on the highest point of Tagaytay City. It stands on 4,516 sq. meters of solid ground and overlooks four bodies of water: Taal Lake, Balayan Bay, Laguna de Bay and Manila Bay. At nightfall, the lake sparkles with pinpoint lights from fishing boats.

After my photo shoot, we stopped by a store which sells home made "ube" a native delicacy made out of taro (a sticky edible tuber). The store is operated by nuns and is a very popular stop for travelers looking for native delicacies, and all kinds of deserts without preservatives.

For Manila bound travelers, Tagaytay is a place you shouldn’t miss. The land travel is very comfortable and relaxing with the scenic view along the way.

The Gems of Ilocos

February 2007

By Rick Enrique

I have been to the Ilocos Region so many times, but traveling by land with my wife Dina and her sister Cora Gonzales and cousin Betty Latorja had been a lot more relaxing, entertaining and certainly a more pleasurable experience. The roads, from the newly improved North Luzon Expressway all the way up to the Ilocos provinces, were well paved. Moreover, seeing rural life up close, with the different regional cultures that clearly depict the country’s colorful past and the lush greenery along the way, were just some of the many fascinating things I discovered during that particular road trip.

Reaching Vigan City, which is the capital of Ilocos Sur, was like stepping back into the past. The city retains much of the 18th century Castilian architecture, as seen in some 150 stone houses which stand in the town’s Mestizo district. Some of the ancestral homes have been turned into cozy inns, museums and souvenir shops. Juan de Salcedo, who patterned its architectural design to that of Intramuros or Old Manila, founded Vigan in 1572.

But it is not only edifices that are well preserved in Vigan, which is inscribed in the UNESCO’S World Heritage List. Vigan folk have also steadfastly preserved their traditional handicrafts, notably pottery and handloom weaving. The horse-drawn rig is as much a presence in the city’s cobbled stone streets as motor vehicles.

A little farther north is the town of Badoc, in Ilocos Norte, where the ancestral house of painter Juan Luna, who became well-known in Europe along with the Philippines National Hero, Dr. Jose Rizal. Along the streets are bakery shops that sell old time Ilocano favorite delicacies.

We stopped by the town of Batac, hometown of the former president Ferdinand Marcos. Batac offers a number of scenic and historical tourist attractions including the Marcos’ ancestral home, which was converted into a museum that displays the memorabilia from the late president’s 20-year reign, as well as mementoes of his military service during World War II. Among the exhibits too, are dozens of life-sized statues of Marcos in various outfits, all the car license plates he used during his entire government service and the letter he wrote to the Filipino people while in exile in Hawaii.

Another attraction is the General Ricarte Shrine, built in honor of General Artemio Ricarte, the first Chief of Staff of the Armed Forces of the Philippines in 1897. A revolutionary hero and a controversial World War II figure, General Ricarte refused to take the oath of allegiance to the United States during the American occupation.

It is in Batac where you will find the Ilocos region’s famous empanada, a deep-fried meat pie, and bagnet, a crispy pork dish served with rice. Both go well with another Ilocandia favorite, the sukang Iloko (vinegar).

We made a detour to Paoay Lake, a 470-hectare land-locked fresh water lake shaped like a horse. According to legend, the whole area used to be an affluent town which was punished for its obsessive attachment to wealth and power. Torrential rains flooded the area and drowned the whole town.

Near the lake is Paoay Church, which is the oldest church in the Philippines. It is inscribed in UNESCO’S World Heritage List, together with three other Philippine baroque churches: the Santa Maria in Ilocos Sur, San Agustin in Manila and the Miag-ao Church in Iloilo. The three churches received the recognition for their unique architectural style, which is a reinterpretation of European Baroque by Chinese and Philippine craftsmen.

A few meters away from the church is a three-storey coral stone bell tower. In earlier times, the bell tower served as a lookout for Philippine “Katipuneros,” (revolutionary group) during the Philippine revolution against the Spaniards and again by the Filipino guerrillas during the Japanese occupation during World War II. The panoramic view from the top of the tower is simply magnificent. You can see the vast expanse of land until it merges with the China Sea.


Rick Enrique is the president of the Association of Filipino Travel Agents (AFTA) and Travel International. He can be reached at (310) 327-5143 or at rick@travelinternational.net

Spooky Bodie

Text and Photographs by Noli Yu

Should you ever decide to go ghosthunting with your family or friends even after Halloween, Bodie is the place to visit.

Bodie is an original ghost town from the late 1800’s. In 1859 William (a.k.a. Waterman) S. Bodey discovered gold near what is now called Bodie Bluff. A mill was established in 1861 and the town began to grow. It started with about 20 miners and grew to an estimated 10,000 people by 1880. The town of Bodie then bustled with families, robbers, miners, storeowners, gunfighters and prostitutes, among others. At one time there were reportedly 65 saloons, brothels and ‘houses of ill repute,’ gambling halls and opium dens.

After a long day working the claims, the miners would head for the bars and the red light district to spend their earnings. The mixture of money, gold and alcohol would often prove fatal. It is said that there was a man killed every day in Bodie. Presumably, the undertaker never had a slow day.

Like all the numerous tourists, we reached Bodie through a 13-mile stretch of dusty road, off state highway 395, in Bridgeport, Central California east of Sierra Nevada Mountains. Make a right on State Highway 270. Continue driving 10 miles until the paved road ends, then continue on for the last 3 miles of an unpaved dirt road. At the end is Bodie, now an Historic State Park and a testament to the bygone era of rowdy cowboys and miners and such.

There’s a story about a little girl whose family moved from San Francisco to Bodie. Depending on who tells you the story, or where you read it, she wrote either: “Good, by God, I’m going to Bodie” or “Goodbye God, I’m going to Bodie”. Once you get through this site, you’ll have to decide for yourself.

For just three bucks (entrance fee) you will enjoy, as my friends an I did, a true-to-life ghost town.

Directions:Bodie is located in the Basin Range, east of the Sierra Nevada Mountains, about 13 miles East of U.S. Highway 395 in central California. If you have GPS equipment, the coordinates are: N38.2122 W 119.0111

Magic of The Cordillera

Text and Photographs by Amir Abad


Mystical and mesmerizing, the Cordillera Mountain range spans the Northern Luzon highlands. I have always been enthralled by this magical place, with its rich culture, history, arts and the unique traditions of the people of Cordillera especially the Ifugaos, Igorots, Ilonggot, Kankanays.

Banaue, Ifugao is about nine to 10 hours drive from Manila. It is quite a long drive but one will be rewarded with breathtaking views along the way. You can also take the daily bus trip of AutoBus, the only bus company that goes to Banaue from Manila for P462 or little over $9. It is advisable to purchase the ticket at least one day in advance to guarantee a seat.

Upon entering Banaue, stop by Banaue Hotel which is run by the Philippine Tourism Authority, and get the recommended Ifugao site map. You can also hire local tour guides at the hotel lobby.

The province of Ifugao boasts of numerous rice terraces, from the vast terrain of Hapao rice fields, the world-famous Banaue rice terraces, to the Amphitheater-like wonder of Batad’s. All are equally stunning in scope, magnificence, and grandeur. Carved from the slopes of rocky but fertile mountains of Cordillera thousands of years ago, the oldest of Ifugao’s rice terraces pre-dates the arrival of the Spaniards in the 15th century.

Using only their bare hands, the most primitive tools and their will to survive, it’s truly amazing and mind boggling how these proud people of the highlands were able to achieve the extremely difficult task of carving the whole mountain side.

Banaue, Ifugao is a charming town with affable people and a pleasantly cool climate. Here, one can already view some of the magnificent Rice Terraces by the roadside, still mostly intact, but one can also notice the proliferation of modern houses. You’d be hardput to find an original Ifugao native house, their indigenous straw roof already replaced by unsightly corrugated metal sheets.

Also, don’t expect natives to be wearing G-strings or traditional Ifugao garments, because you will be sorely disappointed. Modern-day Ifugaos now prefer modern garb such jeans and t-shirts. Ifugaos, young and old alike love to chew betel nut (nganga), accounting for the blood-red stains on sidewalks (from spitting chewed nut) and the unusually red lips and mouth of the natives.

Batad, Ifugao is about an hour’s drive from Banaue. From the junction, to the awe inspiring Batad Amphitheater Rice Terraces is about an hour’s hike depending on your stamina. And be forewarned, this is not an easy hike because there are no flat trails! Several times I thought I would meet my Maker sooner than I prefer because of the difficult terrain, but it’s all worth it.

The amphitheather-like Batad Rice Terraces is a sight to behold, one of the best terraces structure in the whole Ifugao. Several hundred steps down (which seemed like a thousand to me) is the beautiful Tapia Falls, a hidden paradise that very few tourists are lucky, strong or courageous enough to reach. Cascading down the mountains of Batad, Tapia Falls provide tired travelers with crystal clear ice cold water.

The quaint and very beautiful Sagada is about three to four hours drive from Banaue. The road is quite bumpy but you will be rewarded with fascinating views of hair-raising cliffs along the way.

Sagada is a quiet compact town tucked deep in Mountain Province. Big in charm and even bigger in mystery, it boasts of numerous sites that keep adventurous travelers fascinated for days. This quaint little paradise is famous for its limestone caves, subterranean streams, hanging coffins and charming people.

A few minutes from the town proper is the Sumaging Cave, also known as the Big Cave. Visitors are always awed by Sumaging’s cathedral-like grandeur, mysterious chambers and rock formations.

Farther down the road from Sumaging Cave entrance is the eerie Burial Cave with hundreds of massive pinetree log coffins stacked on top of one other in the crevices of the cave. It is most important to pay your respects to these buried ancestors who have been inhabitants of this cave for hundreds of years. Equally mystifying in scope are the world-famous Hanging Coffins of Sagada which are suspended from limestone cliffs using pegs and slabs nailed into the hard rocks.

Cordillera never fails to enchant and fascinate me with every visit. Unfortunately, many Filipinos have not yet discovered the beauty of this mystical place, one of the very best the Philippines has to offer. It may not be one of the more accessible tourist spots, but if you venture into this place, you will be rewarded with infinite enjoyment and fulfillment. That, in essence, is the magic of Cordillera.

Amir Abad is a freelance photographer and graphic artist. He travels frequently to Europe and Asia.